Written Resources

Books

·         The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Costume and Fashion

 This encyclopedia provides visual and written reference for fashion from 1066 to the 1990s. Because of the extensive time frame, it focuses on  points in fashion of significant change. Each page is dominated by the illustration. Most of them feature a male and female figure in the dress of the time, but some feature less or more persons of varying age and gender. A brief description of the clothes is given. Sometimes historical context is                                 given, however, this is not a good source for gathering context about the fashion of the time. Rather, it allows the reader to experience a visual progression in trends. It should also be noted that the fashion is limited to the upper class western experience.

Cassin-Scott, J. (1994). The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Costume and Fashion. New York.: Sterling Pub.

·         A Handbook of Costume Drawing

            This book starts by going over basic figure drawing techniques and talking about the way clothes fit the body. It covers full figures and selected areas           of concentration such as eyes, hands, and feet. This establishes a basis for creating realistic and expressive costume renderings. It then moves on to   materials and techniques of costume illustration. The bulk of the book is devoted to creating period based silhouettes. It starts with 3000 B.C. and          goes through all the major time periods with discussion and illustrations. It is broken down by sections of the body: headdress/hair, neck/shoulder/arm, waist/hip/skirt, and footwear. The book concludes with an overview of how to create a professional design portfolio. It contains an   index for quick reference.

Baker, G. O. (1992). A handbook of costume drawing: A guide to drawing the period figure for costume design students. Boston: Focal Press.

• The Costume Technician’s Handbook by Rosemary Ingham and Liz Covey

First published in 1992 and now on its third edition, this book has been a trusted source of information for many years. It is mainly instructional in nature, serving to build practical skills rather than talk about theory. This is a great ‘how to’ resource for the beginning costumer. It covers everything from pattern development to shop safety. It can be used to establish a foundation to build from, or as a quick reference for the more seasoned sewers. Complete with pictures and diagrams, the layout of this book is easy to follow. It covers an enormous amount of information, but separates it out into digestible sections. It is important to note however, that this resource is more about breadth than depth. It can serve as a starting point for many things, but more specialized information will be needed to complete most projects.

Ingham, R., & Covey, L. (2003). The Costume Technician's Handbook (Third ed.). Portsmouth, NH: Heineman.

·         Draping for Fashion Design by Hilde Jaffe and Nurie Relis

Draping is one of the quintessential skills for professional costumers. This book helps the costumer bring their designs to life. It covers all the basics and some advanced techniques for draping. The book starts by listing  all the supplies needed for transitioning from flat patterning to three dimensional design. It covers techniques for draping waistlines, skirts, slacks, collars, sleeves, shifts, princess lines, dart manipulation, and facings. Once the reader has mastered these areas, there are infinite combinations that can be used to accomplish drapings specific to their designs. One of the shortcomings is that, while giving instructions for marking, the book does not provide sufficient information on how to transfer the design into a paper pattern. However the illustrations and numbered instructions make the rest of the process very user friendly.

Jaffe, H., & Relis, N. (1973). Draping for fashion design. Reston, VA: Reston Pub.

 Journals and Periodicals 

·         Sewing Basics

This article is a fantastic starting place for getting a handle on sewing terminology. It contains a glossary of terms that will help the new costumer sort through the jargon of the shop without the embarrassment of admitting they don’t recognize a word. Fundamental definitions such as bias and seam allowance are essential to preventing potentially costly mistakes. The article also contains a basic list of tools used in sewing. Additionally, it provides numbered diagrams of some of the simpler hand stitches. It shows how to create bias tape and binding as well as miter corners with illustrations to guide the reader through the process with ease. The information here is great for developing the groundwork to build off of throughout one’s studies.

Sewing Basics. (2016). Quilting Arts Magazine, 76-79

·         Costume Fabrics

This article serves as an introduction to sewing with different types of materials. It takes ten basic categories of fabrics and gives some of the fundamental advice for working with them. It is targeted at beginning sewers, so it is very easy to follow. It goes over spandex, sequined fabrics, lace, felt, fringe, fleece, chiffon, faux fur, leather and tulle. It gives advice on everything from what size needle to use, following grainlines, ironing, and finishing edges. The intent is really to give advice for the everyday sewer. But the mom making her child’s Halloween costume often faces a lot of the same fundamental challenges of the seamstress creating a costume for the Broadway stage. The article does not cover everything, but it lays the groundwork for someone getting their start in the field.

LaFoille, N. (2013). 10 Costume Fabrics. Sew News, (337), 28-31.

·         “Bringing Portraits Alive: Catherine Paula Han Interviews Andrea Galer, the Costume Designer for Jane Eyre”

This journal article offers a case specific look at the costumer’s experience. The interview covers the process used by Andrea Galer in designing for Jane Eyre. A lot of discussion is given to the challenges that come with doing a historical piece. There is also the discussion of budgetary limits, having to make duplicate costumes for films, ethical sourcing, and other challenges the costumer must face. Additionally, attention is given to the effects of character, actor, and audience on the design of a costume. Color choices, material choices, and other design elements are analyzed. This can be a useful resource for a costumer in the developmental stage of their costumes because it gives insight into the various factors one has to consider when creating clothing for stage or film.

Bringing Portraits Alive: Catherine Paula Han Interviews Andrea Galer, the Costume Designer for Jane Eyre (BBC, 2006). (2014). Bronte Studies, 39(3), 213-224. doi:10.1179/1474893214Z.000000000116